03 enero 2008

Moda y arte: magnifica combinación


Fashion is the art, designers are the gods
and models play the part of angels in the dark


Moda y arte. ¿Puede existir tan extraña relación cuando ambos mundos son tan diferentes? Ropa, revistas y pasarelas son quizás los símbolos más frívolos y superficiales de la moda. Lo cierto es que estas insignias de la creatividad van más allá de estos adjetivos para convertirse en inmortales obras de arte.

Arte, simple palabra de cuatro letras, pero tan compleja en su estructura, que hoy en día es difícil determinar lo que merece el título de artístico. La concepción más adecuada a estos señalamientos sería definir al arte como una “actividad de la inteligencia por la que se expresa la creatividad y sentimientos con signos o acciones que intentan un efecto comunicativo de múltiples niveles, no sometida a reglas concretas.”

La moda sigue al pie de la letra tal cosmovisión. Los diseñadores crean ropa que le darán movimiento, identidad y valor a quien la adquiera. Nadie les dice como diseñar, se dejan llevar por el momento y expresan toda su creatividad en metros de tela.

La moda comenzó su romance con el arte en los años veinte ( o quizás antes), en el momento en que diversos movimientos artísticos se alejaron de los lienzos y de la palabra escrita, para abarcar los objetos.
El surrealismo fue una de las primeras corrientes que se erigió en la moda, pues lo que cubría al cuerpo era esencial para esta tendencia de vanguardia. El Conde de Lautréamont describía el glorioso encuentro de ambas expresiones: “Tan hermoso como el encuentro fortuito de una máquina de coser y una sombrilla sobre una mesa de disección:”

Si nos remontamos a comienzos del siglo pasado, encontramos que la industria del vestido ha contado con la colaboración de diversos genios como diseñadores y artistas plásticos.
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Las revistas de moda descubrieron que un esfuerzo de la imaginación era capaz de producir infinidad de páginas de brillante inventiva trascendental. Vogue fue una las primeras publicaciones que utilizó esta fórmula de la mente humana para obtener un status más artístico.
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Sus primeras portadas eran ilustradas por los maestros más importantes de aquella época.Entre sus filas contaron con las colaboraciones de artistas como Salvador Dalí y Giorgio de Chirico. Actualmente se han sustituido las ilustraciones de las portadas por fotografías de amplio valor estético, pero aquellos dibujos de los comienzos de la revista se consideran un gran legado para el arte.

En esta percepción, los fotógrafos han descubierto posibilidades infinitas. Steven Meisel, David Lachapelle, Patrick Demarchelier, Annie Leibowitz y Mario Testino son artistas de la cámara que han sabido convertir las editoriales de las revistas de moda más importantes en crisoles de ingenio fotográfico y correcta estética aplicada.
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“La moda no es un arte, pero para dedicarse a ella hay que ser un artista,” decía el diseñador Yves Saint-Laurent, uno de los más importantes de mitades del siglo XX. Lo contradictorio es que el diseñador francés le dio un hijo al arte: el estilo Mondrian, movimiento basado en sus diseños étnicos y rico en colores psicodélicos.

Pero otros artistas del diseño también han mezclado moda y arte de manera apasionante, gracias a lo que se llama haute couture. Esta división de la moda, se caracteriza por construcciones de tela con sentido artístico y artesanal, gracias a que en su confección se utilizan textiles de la más alta calidad, extrema atención de los detalles y acabados, pero sobre todo, técnicas a mano que implican bastantes horas de tiempo.
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“La costura es arte. Hay texturas, color, tiene algo de arquitectura, y todo eso no se improvisa: lo importante es la idea,” decía el modisto Manuel Piña al momento en que adjetivaba su última colección como “pintura, escultura y poemas de amor.”

Según los expertos, la compleja relación moda-arte no queda del todo esclarecida. Lo cierto es que la tendencia actual forja una simbiótica unión donde ambas expresiones de la creatividad humana se retroalimentan una a la otra.
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El arte necesita de la moda. La exposición Skin+Bones refleja el paralelismo que existe entre la arquitectura y el vestido, pues recoge 300 muestras de alta costura y maquetas a escala de grandes edificios, perfilados en la época actual de saltos culturales en la moda y la construcción.
En 2006 la casa Louis Vuitton invitó a nueve artistas a reinventar los bolsos más clásicos de la firma, otorgándoles la posibilidad de inmortalizar el tradicional Monograma de la maison en diferentes técnicas y materiales.
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El resultado fue una exposición en El Espace Louis Vuitton, que reflejó la pasión por lo fashion y el arte de la arquitecta Zaha hadid; el experto en artes visuales, Ugo Rondinone; y la diseñadora plástica Andrée Puttman. Una clara muestra de la estrecha relación de la moda con en el mundo del arte, por si no te había quedado claro.


Los genios del arte han probado ser una de las mejores inspiraciones para la moda, por ello han creado desde portadas de revista hasta diseños que se sumergen en la relación infinita de ambos mundos. Por su parte los modistas han sabido utilizar los preceptos del arte para plasmar su creatividad sobre la tela, cual un pintor en el lienzo. La referencia obligada de esta percepción creativa, más que intelectual, es la diseñadora Elsa Schiaperelli.

Conocida como la enemiga de Coco Chanel, Schipirelli fue una mujer que se alejó del convencionalismo, puesto que quería vestir a las mujeres con prendas actuales e innovadoras. Sus creaciones iban más allá de prendas para cubrir el cuerpo; eran originales, barrocas y sumamente artísticas.

Famosa por sus zapatos invertidos y sombreros de formas raras, era una amante del surrealismo. Su amor por el arte la llevó a colaborar con Salvador Dalí en un célebre vestido estampado con langostas.

Crear y hacer moda es un arte. El arte no puede ser creado por cualquiera y muy pocos sobresalen en el camino. Quienes destacan en la moda son aquellos autores de impactantes y originales diseños, que provocan las mismas interpretaciones y emociones que se tienen al mirar un cuadro.

Lo que atrajo del arte a los creadores de moda fue el ingenio, colores y la originalidad de usar objetos cotidianos en la costura. El arte adoptó la moda con facilidad, mientras que otros movimientos del pensamiento como la ciencia la consideraban insustancial.

Amanda Fortín de la revista Slate ya comprendía la relación moda-arte al tomar de referencia a la revista Vogue: “La mayoría de nosotros no la leemos con la intención de comprar la ropa tan cara, sino porque al hacerlo educamos nuestros ojos y afilamos nuestro gusto, de manera similar en la que degustar comida gourmet refina el paladar.” Esta afirmación también aplica con otras expresiones de la moda como la ropa –especialmente la haute couture- y la fotografía.
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Alguna vez Valentino afirmó que “la moda se hizo para resaltar la belleza de la mujer,” lo cierto es que el arte también cumple con tal función al enriquecer el conocimiento humano. Ya sea en la fotografía, el diseño o la arquitectura, la moda es el reflejo del poder humano para crear una estética capaz de evocar reflexiones y emociones frente a quien se exponga a sus encantos, como si lo hiciéramos frente a alguna pintura..

La moda está presente en nuestra vida desde que nacemos, el arte también. La mayoría sabe de Picasso, del estilo barroco; pero también de Chanel y es que como dice Nigle de The devil wears Prada: la moda reúne a los mejores artistas del siglo y es aún mejor que el arte porque vivimos con ella. Ambas manifestaciones son fundamentales en nuestras vidas; así que apoyémonos de la moda para hacer de nuestra existencia una obra de arte.

179 comentarios:

  1. Magnífico post que te has mandado! Tu reflexión ha estado presente en la mayoría de lo que he leído sobre moda en otros post, si la moda es o no arte, aunque para mí lo que dijo el tipo de Devil Wears Prada resume bastante bien lo que siento...

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  2. Un post que vale la pena leer. El arte y la moda son la prueba más contundente que tengo de que la amistad existe. Besos!

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  3. Me ha encantado el post. Que currada, y cuanta verdad.
    Tienes mucho arte! Besos!

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  4. Maravilloso reportaje!!!

    En mi opinión la moda es un arte, sin duda alguna. Vestirse puede serlo -no siempre lo es- pero diseñar es un ejercicio de creatividad.

    La unión entre arte y moda es tan estrecha que muchos artistas traspasan la linea de uno a otro lado constantemente. Y eso marca un feedback maravilloso

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  5. Que casualidad de verdad me quedo pasmada acabo de leer tu comentario en mi blog y me he venido para aquí corriendo.
    Para mi la moda, entiendase la moda en mayusculas si es un arte ya que para mi detras de cada diseño hay un creador.

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  6. Pues sí, qué currada de post, la verdad es que es cierto lo que dices, la moda y el arte están muyy muyy relacionadas,de exo creo que la una bebe de la otra!!

    BESOSS

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  7. es una simbiosis tan impresionante que es imposible describir a veces...creo que es algo con lo que se tiene que nacer...nose...al menos yo creo eso...

    un beso ChiC y te linkeo!

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  8. Moda y arte? Dinamita 100%!!
    imposible separarlos. Cada pieza de moda es una obra de arte.

    indiscutible.s
    saludos.

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  9. Me ha encantado tu definición de Arte y creo que es muy acertada.
    Como siempre....."Sobresaliente"
    Bicos

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  10. Arte y moda qué tema tan encantador de debatir. Mis editoriales favoritos siempre son aquellos en los que arte y moda se unen.
    Un beso

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  11. más allá de los encantamientos de murakami y vuitton, dalí y shchiaparelli o hasta hirst y levi's, por citar ejemplos básicos, la moda es un mundo dentro del mundo del arte, van unidas, de la mano, desde el momento en que se concibe en la cabeza de alguien, mientras se hace y luego, cuando se tiene ya, transformada en materia, todavía va más allá, en la forma en que la gente la interpreta.

    abrazo.

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  12. wow que articulazo, es buenísimo, es de lo mejorcito que he leido nunca, incluyendo en tu blog, tengo que decir que te has superado a tí mismo, un diez para tí.

    besos

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  13. Yo creo que la moda es una manera de expresar arte, siempre esta presenté el diseño, etc.
    La relación entre arte y moda es muy próxima, aunque a veces es díficil ver los límites que compone el arte.
    Besos


    Nat.-

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  14. Arteha: Gracias por tus coemntarios. Me conmovió mucho lo que dijo Nigle y no podía hacer más que citarlo. Besos fashion.

    Diablesse: creo que estoy en la misma situación. Besos fashion.

    Chicochuc: Gracias por tus comentarios. Besos fashion.

    María:Absolutamente de acuerdo contigo. besos fashion

    Vistiendo a candela: Que bueno fue coincidir en el tema de la arte y la moda. besos fashion

    Lara: Sin duda las dos dependen de la otra. besos fashion


    Undersound: De acuerdo con esta simbiotica relación. Tambien te he linkeado. besos fashion


    Boatoluxo:De cauerdo. besos fashion


    Aralis: Gracias. Besos fashion.


    Thesil:Me encanta que te haya gustado el texto, porque se que otra de tus pasiones es el arte. besos fashion

    Diable:Aunque ya use mucho esta frase: TOTALMENTE DE ACUERDO. Abrazos

    Terrorista:Muchas gracias. besos fashion


    Nat:Gracias por pasarte al blog. Abrazos

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  15. La crítica de “moda”

    La crítica

    Criticar es la acción de emitir juicios de valor de acuerdo a principios de la ciencia o de las artes. Con frecuencia incluimos en la crítica juicios de valor empíricos que están relacionados con aspectos de nuestra vida personal, este tipo de juicios en una crítica formal se describen como prejuicios.

    El prejuicio es la tendencia a juzgar las cosas desde un punto de vista subjetivo, sin ningún conocimiento previo salvo aquél al que nos remite la experiencia personal. Debemos sobre todo lo posible evitar el uso de prejuicios en la crítica, porque los prejuicios están determinados por un contexto socio cultural-específico e individual.

    El objetivo de una crítica no es emitir juicios de valor tenaces que tengan por objeto enaltecer o desfavorecer el objeto en juicio. La crítica debe orientarse a la descripción del objeto.

    La crítica es esencialmente un análisis descriptivo, que debe tener una función didáctica. La crítica debe estar dirigida a aquéllas terceras personas que necesiten una guía de interpretación sobre el objeto en juicio.

    En la crítica los adjetivos deben ser usados de manera prudente. Debemos evitar el uso de peyorativos o adjetivos elogiosos y laudatorios así como usar de manera prudente el uso de algunos adverbios tales como los adverbios de cantidad mucho y poco; a menos que estos sean utilizados con una finalidad comparativa. La crítica debe tener una postura neutral.

    La moda

    En la crítica “de moda” se debe ser cauteloso. Con frecuencia se tiende a pensar que un nombre reconocido, un eminente o cualquier otro tipo de líder de opinión está calificado para emitir una crítica válida.

    La moda es un concepto social transmitido por la sobre-estructura de la sociedad. Este concepto es admitido por el resto de la sociedad como un consenso validado por los líderes de opinión. Si Britney Spears hoy en día se le ocurriría usar calcetines con zapatos de tacón, es posible que alguno de sus fanáticos decida hacerlo también y el impacto se proyecte a tal grado que se llegara a poner de moda.

    Recordemos que la moda en sí quiere decir: promedio. Es decir que la moda se relaciona con todo aquello que el promedio de la gente acepta, hablar de moda es hablar de lo que está en boga y lo que está en boga es todo aquello que se encuentra un auge y éxito creciente. Algo que está de moda, se trata de un patrón perceptible en la sociedad en la manera de hacer las cosas.

    La moda y el arte (el proceso creativo)

    No debemos confundir la moda y el arte. La moda es una manera repetitiva de hacer las cosas, el arte es una forma particular de hacer las cosas. Arte es la virtud, disposición y habilidad de hacer algo determinado. La moda es referente a lo que está en boga.

    Un error que tendemos a hacer frecuentemente es usar el término moda exclusivamente refiriéndonos a la manera de vestir.

    Es aquí donde encontramos el conflicto entre el arte y la moda, porque cuando hablamos de la manera en que generalmente viste la sociedad hablamos de moda, y tanto así mismo como la moda es un concepto social, el arte también lo es. Determinar lo que es arte o no, se determina de la misma manera en que se determina lo que es moda o no. No queriendo decir que ambos términos signifiquen lo mismo.

    Sin embargo cuando hablamos del término “diseño de modas” refiriéndose al diseño de la ropa tendemos a imaginar que todo aquello que un “diseñador de modas” hace es moda, sin detenernos a preguntarnos si en realidad será “acatado por el promedio de la gente”.

    Vamos a abandonar ahora el término de “diseñador de moda” porque es un término confuso, si buscáramos un término más adecuado podría ser “diseñador de textiles y vestimenta” pero tampoco lo usaremos en el presente texto porque se presta a confusión con el concepto de “diseñador de textiles” que si bien es un término similar, no es del todo lo mismo. Así que vamos a referirnos simplemente como “diseñador” a aquél que diseña la ropa, porque ha quedado claro ya que es la crítica del diseño de ropa específicamente el tema principal de este ensayo.

    Irónicamente la acción del diseñador puede ser descrita como una “actividad artística”, la cuál constantemente está en tela de juicio por la sociedad. El cuestionamiento reside en la misma confusión que causa hablar sobre el “diseño de moda”. No obstante, habiendo ya explicado la diferencia entre el arte y la moda, y habiendo dejado que el concepto de “diseño de moda” es incorrecto es importante observar que sin importar qué es lo que el diseñador diseñe, el diseño es una actividad que forma parte de la creatividad, siendo o no autómata, siendo o no planificado; es el diseño una forma de comunicación, es inherente a la naturaleza y las necesidades humanas y forma parte del proceso creativo.

    El arte no sé limita a comunicar sentimientos, buscar posibilidades de abstracción, a finalidades estéticas o funcionales, a la recreación. El arte es tan ilimitando cuanto la imaginación y la creatividad del artista lo es.

    Es por ello que a pesar de que la arquitectura tiene como finalidad principal el crear espacios funcionales para determinadas actividades es considerado un arte, porque hay formas particulares de crear dichos espacios. Del mismo modo es arte la creación de piezas destinadas al vestir.

    El carácter de una marca o diseñador (estilo, técnica y naturaleza)

    La forma específica en la que el autor de una obra artística manifiesta lo que hace se conoce como estilo, y más específicamente el proceso artesanal (no el proceso creativo) se define por la técnica. La técnica y el estilo son determinantes en el carácter de una marca o un diseñador.

    El carácter, hablando del diseño de vestimenta; se determina además por la naturaleza de la obra: los motivos, la influencia histórico-social, religiosa y filosófica sobre el autor.

    La funcionalidad de la obra y su evaluación.

    La finalidad de la obra determina su función, una obra es perfecta cuando resulta efectiva. Es decir cuando sirve y cumple su función de manera correcta y apropiada.

    La finalidad de una pieza de ropa es evaluada tomando en cuenta los siguientes criterios:

    • Aspecto situacional: ¿Es o no la pieza apropiada para una situación determinada? ¿En qué tipo de situaciones es efectiva?

    • Aspecto práctico: ¿La pieza es ergonómica? ¿Es cómoda, nos ahorra tiempo al vestir?

    • Aspecto estético: ¿Es la pieza visualmente agradable?

    • Aspecto de personalidad: ¿Qué tipo de personalidad proyecta la pieza en la persona que la viste?

    • Aspecto emotivista: ¿Qué tipo de respuestas emotivas genera la pieza en los demás?

    Valoración de la obra

    La valoración de la obra es el grado de importancia que las personas de manera individual o grupal le pueden dar a la obra, respecto a su contexto.

    ¿Prêt-à-porter, alta costura o mercado de masas?

    Es importante, al hacer una crítica sobre una colección de alguna marca o diseñador determinados, distinguir a qué tipo de diseño corresponden las piezas.

    Estamos acostumbrados a conocer los nuevos modelos en salas de exposición (showrooms) o en las pasarelas; pero frecuentemente no sabemos si el diseño se trata de alta costura, prêt-à-porter o mercado de masas. Podemos conocer este dato si conocemos de antemano el trabajo del autor.

    Para hacer esta distinción es importante saber lo que significan estos términos.

    Prêt-à-porter: Este es un término francés que significa literalmente “Listo para usar”; se refiere a un punto medio entre la alta costura y el mercado de masas. En este tipo de ropa existe un mercado estrictamente definido, el corte, la costura y la tela son seleccionados con mucho cuidado.

    Alta costura (Haute couture): Es el término para la ropa que se hace a la medida. Es personalizado. La alta costura no es en absoluto sinónimo de calidad. Si la costura es impecable y el corte perfecto, no quiere decir que se trate de alta costura.

    Es posible que nos encontremos en una pasarela de alta costura observando modelos que nos parecieran extraterrestres y que pensamos que una persona jamás usaría. En las pasarelas de alta costura no se presentan piezas de ninguna manera usuales, ni tienen la finalidad de encajar con lo ordinario, estas piezas son conocidas como piezas conceptuales que finalmente se adaptarán al gusto del cliente (si es que el capricho del diseñador se lo permite).

    Otras veces observamos piezas de ropa que no cumplen satisfactoriamente con todos los criterios de funcionalidad, sino que por el contrario se desarrollan claramente entorno uno o dos de estos criterios específicamente. Estas piezas no son para usarse, son prototipos de innovación que se exponen con el fin de obtener retroalimentación para marcar las tendencias.

    Mercado de masas: las piezas de mercado de masas son aquéllas que están destinadas a cumplir un amplio rango de clientes, son confeccionadas en tamaños estándar, con materiales baratos y se basan en la aprobación de las tendencias en una determinada temporada para asegurarse de que serán exitosamente vendidas.

    No debemos pensar al hacer una crítica que todo aquello que vemos en las pasarelas o en las salas de exhibición es para vestir. De este modo nos evitaremos decir comentarios como “está espantoso yo nunca me lo pondría”.

    Conclusiones

    Así bien, la crítica debe tener una estructuración. El orden de los temas puede ser indistinto. Una crítica integral no pasa por alto la descripción del proceso artístico, la naturaleza de la obra, el estilo, su funcionalidad ni su valoración. Así como tampoco se olvida de hacer una descripción exhaustiva del carácter del diseñador o de la marca.

    El autor de la crítica debe tener muy en cuenta de qué tipo de diseño está escribiendo, si es un diseño prêt-à-porter, de alta costura o para un mercado de masas. Sólo entonces si tiene claro y lo manifiesta puede hacer una evaluación correcta y válida de los aspectos de su funcionalidad: situacional, práctico, estético, personalidad y emotivista.

    Una crítica que no cuenta con todos los elementos mencionados en este ensayo puede ser una crítica pobre. Sin embargo no del todo inválida; salvo que los juicios de valor no sean emitidos de manera correcta. Cualquier prejuicio o adverbio usado incorrectamente son absolutamente inválidos. Hago sumo hincapié en una postura didáctica y neutral al escribir una crítica.

    Escrito por Miguel A. Gaitan
    Registrado.

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